霧中的救世主/李明熙
在里約熱內盧一週,天氣一直晴雨不定,別說基督山上的救世主像,就連比它矮一截的 Sugarloaf 山展望台,都常在濃霧之中。但一場來到巴西,沒到過基督山,總好像缺少了甚麼。
里約受海洋氣候影響,一天內的變化很大,我們觀察了幾天,研究過網上不同天氣預報網站,抽出較準確的一個,再判斷哪個時段最大機會看到救世主像,看到只有週日下午有些微機會。
登上基督山有三個方法:最直接是坐纜車,但沿途沒甚麼風景好看;其次是坐專車,很多時纜車爆滿,這為次著;最後是徒步,約三個小時,當地人說山中有機會遇劫,最好一群人或聘導遊領路。
週末纜車票比平日貴,我們想避開纜車站的人龍,在巿內先購票,車票是指定時間,而且收手續費,但到達車站才發現中伏。
在車站售票處,有直播電視播著救世主像,我們只見一片濃霧。同行的英國旅人說,他連續來了三天,電視都是同一個畫面,只好回頭。我們在沒有選擇下登上纜車,祈求風大一點把霧吹散。
步出纜車,還要走幾段梯級,在樹蔭間隱約看到救世主像的背影,我們馬上加緊腳步,一口氣登頂。
三十米高的救世主像在霧中初現,遊人馬上爭奪有利位置拍照,一個拿著照相機躺在地上,一個像救世主般張開兩臂。Art Deco 風格的雕像,過了近一個世紀仍不覺落伍。朝著救世主的眼光方向,可飽覽里約全景。
上山的人群愈來愈多,地上躺著的人相應增加,山頂廣場可走動的地方所餘無幾,連兩個露天茶座都坐滿遊人。我們看見霧氣漸濃,便坐纜車離去。
下山後回頭一看,救世主像再次被濃霧吞噬。
Iguaçu vs Iguazú/Kimberlogic
Iguazú Falls in my opinion, are the most spectacular waterfalls in the world. While doing my research about visiting the falls, I was only finding writers’ opinions of which side was better to see the falls from. The majority of people say that Argentina is the best place, but I have to disagree. I believe both sides are equally amazing and a trip to the falls is incomplete if you only see them from one side.
We started our visit on the Brazilian side in Foz do Iguacu. We visited the Falls in the morning by taking the public bus #120 to the falls (it stops all along the main road to the falls, so there is no need to go all the way to the bus terminal) for 4 Real (1.2 USD) and planned to cross the Argentina border after our visit. Although we weren’t sure if there would be lockers for our luggage, we took the chance and carried it all to the Falls to avoid having to come back to town. We also took another chance of hoping we could get a direct bus from the Falls to Puerto Iguazu, the closest town across the Argentina border.
Taking the chance worked well in our favor. Next to the ticket office at the Brazilian entrance are enormous lockers for luggage storage, we were able to fit all of our bags in one locker with room to spare. Issue one, solved. (There are lockers on the Argentina side as well)
After spending about three hours in the park, it was time to search for a solution to our second issue: a bus to Argentina. When we asked the park staff, they told us to stand to the right of the drop off point in front of the ticket office. There was no bus sign or timetable, but there were enough people hanging around, so we waited. A few minutes later a bus pulled up that said “Argentina” on the front. The company was called Rio Uruguay, and we would later find out that this is practically the only company servicing the Falls in Argentina.
We hopped on the bus, paid the driver 10 Real (3 USD) each and were on our way. The bus stopped at Brazilian immigration and waited for us, then continued to Argentina immigration. When we went into Argentina immigration, the driver escorted us. He waited to make sure everyone made it through and got back on the bus. The bus dropped us at the main bus station in the center of Puerto Iguazu. It was a smooth and easy border crossing.
The following day when we wanted to visit the Argentina Falls we used the same bus company, Rio Uruguay. The bus runs every 20 minutes and cost 150 Argentina Pesos (8.6 USD) roundtrip. We tried to find a public bus that was cheaper, but it seems this is the best option and the only bus company servicing the falls.
We spent more time exploring the Argentina side than the Brazilian side. That is only because there are more trails in Argentina and in Brazil there are many shuttle buses to transport people from the visitors center to the trail, where in Argentina it is a slow moving train.
Iguazu Falls are the most amazing waterfalls I have ever seen and descriptions and photos do not do them justice. Being there in person and feeling the power of the raging water completes this experience.